Physical Needs Guide (produced by SSEBS)

Psittacines in captivity have unique requirements that must be met to be successful, healthy beings.  The human(s) in the equation must step up to the responbsibility to provide the physical, psychological (emotional) and instinctual needs of the parrots in their care.  The links and information included here are from sources that SSEBS considers credible.  What we include here is a beginning.  The need to continue learning is paramount.  As we uncover the mysteries inherent in learning to co-exist successfully with parrots, we may begin to understand their intrinsic nature and how to figure out what their needs really are.  We cannot hope to interpret parrots reactions to what we provide if we cannot understand their differences from us. Physical requirements, diet and exercise differ for each of the 220 or so species of parrots kept in captivity.  There are some similarities for each of the parrot groups, but in many ways each parrot will be as individual as each one of us.

PHYSICAL NEEDS

The roots of the majority of problems that are reported by parrot behavior consultants related to physical needs are a poor or inappropriate diet and/or failure to deal appropriately with environmental elements.

The specific aspects of the environment we provide, as well as the quality of experience we provide, will determine whether our companion parrots have a successful or an unhappy experience with us. Among the physical factors that can create problems are housing related (improper caging, poor cage placement, improper lighting), exposure to toxins, lack of opportunities for exercise and bathing, boredom due to lack of stimulation, a stressful social environment, a schedule that fails to take account of a parrot's natural biorhythms, and lack of or change in the amount of attention received. Solutions to those problems require making the changes necessary to improve the offending aspects of your parrot's environment.

Food and Nutrition 

Parrots are highly intelligent and active animals. Without a proper diet, a captive parrot is prone to disease and nutrient deficiency. Eating the same meal day after day is about as exciting as watching paint dry for all of us.  Your feathered friends are no exception.  The opportunity to explore different tastes, textures and shapes, and to make choices about the foods they eat is essential to maintaining a healthy bird. Offering a broad range of appropriate nutritional sources and a wide variety of healthy foods is a great way to make life more interesting for your bird and cause you to have to make fewer trips to your avian veterinarian.

There are species specific nutritional requirements you must learn about, but a broad generalization is that a well rounded diet includes a daily combination of grains and legumes that are about 45% of the daily ration, vegetables and fresh greens which comprise another 45% of the daily ration, and fruit (5%).  A sprinkling of seeds that are species appropriate and healthy treats can be added (< 5%), but they should be minimized.

The following information sources are good places to look for information about parrot diets and nutrition:

Feeding Feathers

“We are a place for those who have serious questions regarding the feeding of their companion parrots, some small confusions, or just want to get an idea as to HOW to proceed to do the best possible job in preparing good nutrition for their avian companion." pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/FeedingFeathers/

The Optimal Environment – Feeding Our Parrots Well

Pamela Clark has hands-on experience with a wide range of parrot species. Pam is especially knowledgeable about African Greys, having bred and reared them for several years. www.parrothouse.com/pamelaclark/feeding.html

Exercise

In the wild, parrots get lots of aerobic exercise.  They fly miles every day in search of food, mates, and during breeding season looking for nest sites, engaging in courtship displays and mating.  Being prey animals, they fly to flee predators.  They exert energy defending their nests and playing.

Just like humans, exercise for parrots enhances cardiovascular and muscle health.  Too little activity carries risks – obesity, depression, heart disease, cardiovascular inflammation and behavior problems (screaming, plucking, and aggressiveness for examples).

The relatively sedentary existence our companion parrots live can lead to the negative results of obesity (fatty liver disease, circulation problems, heart disease, compromised respiratory capability, kidney disease and joint problems).

In order to keep their muscles toned, hearts conditioned and joints healthy we need to provide ongoing opportunities for our birds to climb, flap, fly and play.  Exercise reduces stress levels inherent in captivity, stimulates mental alertness, and improves balance and coordination. We can do this by providing safe, complex toys for the parrot to work on and climb all over, or with other visual or auditory stimulation.

There are many ways to get your companion parrot to exercise.  A few that are appropriate include:

• House your bird in a cage that is large enough for the bird to fully flap his/her wings.
  

• Erect an indoor or outdoor flight cage.
  

• Place foraging stations with safe foraging toys at varying heights around the cage to encourage movement and mental stimulation.
  

• Select size-appropriate toys your bird likes that encourage movement.  Ladders, swings, bungee bouncers, toys that allow a bird to climb into or on them with things to do inherent in the toy design are some of the choices readily available from reputable bird toy companies.
  

• Provide size-appropriate toys your bird likes that are designed for destruction, manipulation and preening to engage your bird physically and mentally.
  

• Sing and dance with your bird.  It’s good for both of you and can bring a laugh or two.  Make up safe games you can play together.
  

• Perform the “Perch Potato Wing Flap” exercise regularly IF YOUR BIRD WANTS TO DO IT WITH YOU AND HAS NO PHYSICAL ABNORMALITY THAT MIGHT CAUSE HIM/HER INJURY.  NEVER FORCE A BIRD TO DO ANYTHING IT DOES NOT WANT TO DO UNLESS THE BIRD’S LIFE IS IN IMMEDIATE DANGER.  MONITOR YOUR BIRD’S BREATHING DURING THE WING FLAPPING – IF S/HE STARTS BREATHING HEAVILY STOP IMMEDIATELY.  LET YOUR BIRD CATCH ITS BREATH.  Your bird should build up endurance over time.  Go at the bird’s pace to increase the length of exercise sessions.  The maximum length of this kind is session should probably not exceed five to ten minutes – you must let the bird tell you when to stop, so be observant.  The exercise is done in the following way:
  

 

1.   Securely perch the bird on your hand.

2.   Firmly grip your bird’s toes and gently move your arm (not just your hand) up

              and down to encourage wing flapping (your bird will flap its wings to maintain

              balance).  If your bird prefers to hang upside down on your hand, keep a firm

              grip on your bird’s toes and swing your arm (not just your hand) gently in an arc.

There are many good websites by companies who sell wonderful bird toys – or toy parts so you can get creative yourself.  These are a few of the ones our members like (in no particular order):

Grey Feather Toys     www.greyfeathertoys.com

Avian Enrichment www.avianenrichment.com

Aussie Bird Toys       www.aussiebirdtoys.com

Housing (Cages and Aviaries)

We have a responsibility to provide an outlet for our parrots to expend their considerable energy.  We can help by providing the parrot with the largest cage or aviary possible.  (This is particularly important for the larger species such as cockatoos and macaws.)

The dimensions of the openings in cages or aviaries are dependent on the size of the parrot for whom you are providing an enclosure. As a general rule of thumb, openings that are  1/2” x 1” are appropriate for small Birds (Budgie, Canary, Finch, Lovebird, Parakeet, Parrotlet), most medium sized Birds (Caiques, Cockatiel, Conure, Indian Ringneck Parakeets, Lory, Quaker Parrots, Senegal Parrots). The 1” x 1” openings are for larger birds (African Grey, Amazon, Cockatoo, Eclectus, Macaw).  If your parrot can get its head through the opening, it is too large to be safe.

The enclosure should be at very least large enough for your parrot to spread his/her wings to full span in any direction without touching the sides of the enclosure.

Environmental Health and Safety

A parrot in your house may be likened to having a child who is just beginning to walk, but with the added complication that the parrot can fly.

The World Parrot Trust www.parrots.org has identified the following environmental health concerns around the house.  It is a list that provides a beginning point and is not meant to be all-inclusive.  Examine your home for other hazards, too, and mitigate them appropriately.  Consistent and constant vigilance will be required from you to keep your parrot safe.

• Windows and ceiling fans – a parrot that is able to fly can pick up
  

      enough speed to do itself serious damage should it fly into a window or

      up into a ceiling fan that is running.  While a parrot is out and about,

  windows should be covered, fans turned off, and drawstrings and cords carefully tucked        away.

• Kitchens and non-stick cooking utensils – it's best not to have your parrot in the kitchen: the dangers are obvious and endless.  Teflon® and other non-stick cookware give off fumes when heated which are toxic to your parrot (SSEBS NOTE: they can kill your parrot in less than a minute).  Cooking sprays are also harmful to their respiratory tracts.  And, of course, the stove is off-limits.
  

SSEBS recommends that you get rid of all cooking utensils with any form of non-stick or other coating.  Self-cleaning ovens are not safe to operate around parrots.  If you are not willing to rid your household of these kinds of hazardous items, having a parrot as a companion in your house is not a good choice for you to make.

• Washrooms/Bathrooms – should be off-limits due to receptacles in which the parrot may become trapped and drown (sinks and toilets).
  

• Electronics and cords – as parrots are natural chewers, this one is obvious.
  

• Heaters and appliances – eliminate the chance of your parrot receiving burns and electrocution by keeping your pet situated well away from these dangers.
  

• Cleaners and other toxic chemicals – should always be kept locked up.  Some cleaners are also very irritating to a parrot’s respiratory tract, so if you must use them in your household, be sure your parrot is kept well away from them in a well-ventilated area.
  

• Chocolate, coffee, avocado and other foods – some foods are off-limits for pets, especially for parrots. Get to know which foods are known to be dangerous to parrots.
  

• Toxic houseplants – the less these are in the house, the better. Learn which common houseplants are known to be toxic to parrots and select only non-toxic plants that can be safely grown around your bird.
  

Good Hygiene

Cleanliness that prevents the spread of disease and ensures health preservation is different in captivity than in the wild.  In the wild, birds have opportunities for daily bathing to keep their feathers in prime condition, fresh drinking water as needed, fresh food selections, activities that keep beaks and toenails from becoming overgrown and no droppings in close proximity all the time.

In captivity, we must ensure that their environment and bodies are kept clean.  Health problems and the spread of infectious disease happen very easily from droppings, contaminated drinking water, spoiled food and feather dust.

The nucleus of an appropriate hygiene program includes:

• Provide clean drinking water every day.
  

• Sanitize dishes daily.
  

• Discard cooked diets and fresh fruits and veggies after 4 hours to avoid spoilage & bacterial growth.
  

• Keep your bird's cage, perches and toys clean.
  

• Provide frequent opportunities for safe bathing.
  

• Monitor your bird's feathers, nails and beak growth.  Learn to do necessary grooming properly yourself, or take your bird to a qualified avian groomer.  Beaks rarely need trimming.  Never trim a bird’s beak yourself.  Take your bird to a qualified avian veterinarian if any alteration in the beak must be done.
  

*Use bird safe cleaners and disinfectants.

*Control pests using bird safe methods.

• Never kiss your bird on the beak or allow your bird to kiss you on the mouth.  Studies have now revealed that your saliva is home to more than 600 species of bacteria, none of them appropriate for your bird.
  

Keeping Your Bird Healthy

Thank you to the fine folks at Avian Enrichment www.avianenrichment.com for this helpful synopsis:

The single most important goal you should have as a responsible parrot owner is to ensure that your bird lives a long, happy and healthy life.  The first step to take is to educate yourself and your family about all aspects of bird care.  To keep your bird in top physical health, the basic areas you must address include:

• Provide a well-balanced, nutritious diet - the primary key to ensuring optimal health.
  

• Give your bird opportunities for exercise.
  

• Develop knowledge of potential safety hazards in your household (Teflon, plants, cleaning supplies, foods) and take preventative measures to avoid accidents.
  

• Eliminate/reduce sources of stress for your bird.
  

• Allow your bird to get adequate sleep. SSEBS Note: Parrots should get ten to twelve hours of uninterrupted sleep each night.  There are several ways to accomplish this:  provide a sleep cage in a dark room; cover the cage at night – the sleep area must be quiet as well as dark; provide a dark room for your bird (if night frights are an issue, leave a dim night light on away from the cage).
  

• Maintain a clean cage environment to prevent bacterial and fungal infections.
  

• Observe your bird and determine what is a normal daily routine for your bird.  Early detection of health problems (learn to recognize the signs of a sick bird) will be key to the successful treatment and recovery of your bird in the event of illness.
  

• Develop a relationship with a qualified avian veterinarian (aka “vet”) so that s/he is familiar with your bird should an emergency occur.   Have your vet perform annual checkups on each of your birds.
  

• Be prepared in the event of an emergency.  Know where to find an avian vet, develop knowledge of basic first aid and have an avian first aid kit on hand.
  

• Monitor your bird's weight weekly using a gram scale with a built-in perch. It is very difficult to detect weight loss without the use of a gram scale due to a bird's feather coat.  SSEBS Note:  The most accurate weight is one taken in the morning before your bird’s morning meal.  Whenever you take it, take weights at the same time of day every time so you have comparative weights over time.  Learn what is normal for your parrot.  Look for weight fluctuations that can’t be readily identified as normal.
  

• Always quarantine new birds before introducing them to the rest of your flock.
  

*Inclusion of information on this website does not constitute endorsement, unless produced by SSEBS.

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